Few things are more thrilling than sitting 15 feet from a large brown bear fishing in the wild. The first time it happened, I chalked it up to luck. The second time, I felt like I’d won the lottery. By my sixth and seventh bear sightings, I realized that on this trip, close encounters would be delightfully commonplace.
I was in Alaska to photograph coastal brown bears (also known as grizzlies when they live inland) on Natural Habitat Adventures’ “Grizzly Ship Photo Expedition: Kodiak to Katmai” tour. Offered for a maximum of eight guests, the departure was a photography-focused version of their classic grizzly itinerary. My trip included more time in the field and an expert bear guide-photographer, who understood the nuances of lighting, positioning and technique for capturing meaningful wildlife imagery.
The eight-day expedition kicked off in Kodiak, where we explored the island’s waterways by private boat, marveling at whales, puffins and a raft of sea otters nearly 200 strong. A 45-minute floatplane flight set us down in Katmai National Park and Preserve the following morning.
The park’s jaw-dropping landscapes can only be accessed by air or water and are home to one of Alaska’s highest densities of coastal brown bears, which are well-fed on sedge, a protein-rich grass, and seasonal salmon. Our veteran guide, Shawn Egglestone, has spent years in this region observing the animals with small groups.
Credit: 2024 Susan Portnoy
“The bears see that we aren’t a threat, and they don’t associate us with food, or as food,” he said.
A Typical Day for Ursus Guests
Ursus — a converted, 73-foot former crabbing vessel with four guest cabins sharing two full bathrooms — served as our home base. (Reality show fans will remember it as the Time Bandit from the hit show “Deadliest Catch.”) Where and when we sailed was dictated by Alaska’s ever-changing weather, the condition of the water, the tides and the salmon runs, which occur in bays and tributaries at different times. We sailed to Kuliak Bay one day, for example, but anchored in the stunningly beautiful Geographic Harbor, where calmer waters prevailed and photo opportunities were high.
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Credit: 2024 Susan Portnoy
The ship’s skiff ferried us to various spots along the coast twice daily, weather permitting. Armed with provided chest waders, rubber boots, a bug net and a lidded bucket to sit on, we hiked to sandbars with clear views of the bears fishing. As required, Egglestone placed us at least 150 feet from the bears. Even so, the charismatic predators often meandered around us, like on an African safari, giving us front-row seats to their fishing, playing and grazing. On three occasions, a bear came within 8 feet us — we dubbed these moments “drive-bys.” Several times, the animals fished within 15 to 20 feet of our group, yet I never felt unsafe.
What to Expect Onboard Ursus
You won’t find luxury accommodations on the Ursus, but it’s cozy and perfectly comfortable. Each room features two twin berths and an en-suite sink. The ship’s soul is the old-school, wood-paneled galley with a large horseshoe-shaped banquet where we dined, chatted and spent one stormy morning watching a National Geographic documentary.
Credit: 2024 Susan Portnoy
An Adventure for Wildlife Enthusiasts
When it comes to wildlife, nothing is certain. But on a trip like this, where tourists are scarce and the animals are accustomed to humans, it greatly hedges a client’s bet. Having been on several safaris and other wildlife adventures, this was one of the most intimate and exceptional.
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For clients who want to see mating behaviors, June through the beginning of July is the best time to book. From the end of July through September, the salmon are running.
To get the most out of their journey, travelers should be in good shape and be able to navigate uneven terrain, walk through water, get in and out of float planes and skiffs, sit for long periods and be comfortable with a “wilderness toilet.”
Due to volatile weather, which often delays or cancels flights (especially the regional floatplanes), I recommend travel advisors book an extra night on either side of the trip’s start and end dates. Kodiak has plenty of activities to keep folks occupied.
