Variety is the spice of life on the largest Greek island. Crete, home of the Minotaur legend and birthplace of Europe’s first evolved society, is a vivid and sensual mosaic of contrasts: from lofty mountains and pink-sand beaches, to buzzing nightlife and traditional kafeneions (coffeehouses). Standing at the crossroads of three continents, the atoll described by Homer in his Odyssey as “a fair land … in the midst of the wine-dark sea” has been invaded countless times over the centuries. The traces of successive invasions can be found in Turkish bathhouses, Venetian fortresses, and Byzantine architecture.
However, Cretans refuse to dwell on the past: any and every occasion is an excuse for a glendi (party), usually revolving round food: home-grown vegetables, locally produced olive oil, fat snails gleaned in the mountains, or raki brewed in the local still. And (as any Greek will proudly tell you) Crete is the country’s most hospitable island, so you can expect plenty of invitations to join in the fun.
Morning
It takes seven hours to drive from one end to the other of the megalo nisi, or big island, as Greeks know it, so your first day will only give you a small taste of the wonders of this storied island. Whether you stay for a weekend or a week, capital Heraklion makes a great base.
Grab a slice of custard-packed bougatsa pastry at Kirkor and, if you’re feeling brave, try the syrupy elliniko coffee heated on a bed of sand. Then spend an hour in the Heraklion Museum, where archaeological wonders include the intricate Malia bee pendant, Kamares tableware, and those legendary Minoan frescoes. From here it’s an easy stroll to 1866 Street Market, where you can see stivania (traditional Cretan boots) and knives inscribed with mantinades (traditional Cretan rhyming couplets).
This is also where you’ll find some excellent kafenions, including my favourite: Kafeneio O Lakkos, located in a leafy square in what was once the city’s red-light district. Fill up on meze snacks like plump stuffed courgette flowers and xochloi snails in a garlicky sauce, served with thimbles of raki.
