At night, the French Quarter came alive, with something surprising inside each dive: along Bourbon Street we passed a crowd doing the cha-cha slide in perfect synchronicity, next door to which two men were engaged in an intense game of chess. A show at Preservation Hall, just off Royal Street, was the hottest ticket in town. New Orleans legends such as Emma Barrett have performed at this 40-seat venue, where today New Orleans’ finest musicians play a mix of marching tunes and jazz standards.
Days five to seven: Memphis
Our Elvis Presley pilgrimage began on the way into Memphis, when we made a detour to the singer’s home city of Tupelo, parking up at Johnnie’s, his favourite burger joint. Intrigued to try their famous doughburgers – an unlikely delicacy created during the Great Depression where flour is mixed into the patty to bulk out the meat – we both ordered one and the singer’s preferred RC cola in tribute. They were surprisingly fluffy, perfectly flavoured with mustard and pickles – and so moreish we shared another. As part of a tour with the Elvis Birthplace Museum, we also visited the modest 400-square-foot house in which he was born (and where his identical twin brother Jessie was tragically stillborn), and also took a moment to sit in the church he attended as a child.
Courtesy Emily FinchThe Hernando de Soto Bridge in Memphis
Courtesy Brooke TheisThe living-room at Graceland
It was an hour and a half before we reached the neon glow of downtown Memphis, driving past buzzy Beale Street – the home of the blues, where artists such as BB King used to play – and Sun Studio, a place that tops the bucket lists of 1950s-music fans. This was where the DJ Sam Phillips helped launch the careers of some of the world’s most legendary musicians: Elvis made his first hit ‘That’s Alright Mama’ here at the age of 19; Johnny Cash recorded ‘Cry, Cry, Cry’; and Jerry Lee Lewis ‘Great Balls of Fire’.
The city has had an overwhelming impact on modern music-making; to its south is Stax Records, which produced some of the most emblematic soul songs of 1960s and 1970s, including ‘I’ll Take You There’ by the Staple Singers and Otis Redding’s ‘The Dock of the Bay’. Just 10 minutes from the centre is Graceland, Elvis’ beloved home. The house is exactly as he left it, a time capsule of his eccentric Seventies extravagance, with outlandish interiors that include a shag-pile-clad jungle-room with an indoor waterfall.
Where to stay? The Peabody Hotel, a Memphis institution, whose five resident Mallard ducks march daily through the grand lobby.
The Peabody/Trey Clark
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Where to dine? Book in at Amelia Gene for an unbeatable cheesecake; for hearty Italian dishes, try Catherine and Mary’s.
Bring home… memorabilia from Sun Studios and Graceland.
Road trip tip: forgo the interstate roads and take the beautiful Natchez Trace Parkway, which runs for 444 miles from Louisiana to Tennessee through a picturesque national park.
Days eight to ten: Nashville
While New Orleans and Memphis are clearly strong contenders, Tennessee’s capital clinches the title of ‘Music City’. Although it’s known as the heartland of country, Nashville is home to many genres – bluegrass, jazz, gospel, rock ’n’ roll… The best place to immerse yourself is in one of the intimate venues where songwriters debut their newest melodies, such as the Bluebird or the Listening Room Café.
Just a short hop from the honky-tonks of Broadway is the Country Music Hall of Fame, where I almost lost my guitarist husband among its extensive collection of memorabilia (especially exciting was Les Paul’s Log – the first-ever modern electric guitar dating from 1939). From there, you can also jump on a bus to visit another historic studio – RCA Studio B – where Dolly Parton recorded both ‘I Will Always Love You’ and ‘Jolene’.
Courtesy Brooke TheisSteve Earle performing at the Grand Ole Opry in March 2024
Of course, a trip to Nashville is incomplete without a visit to the historic live-radio hall, the Grand Ole Opry. We ended our final evening with a backstage tour, mingling with the musicians in the green-room as they waited to go on and watching the triple Grammy Award-winner Steve Earle perform from the side of the stage.
Where to stay? The Hermitage Hotel – Tennessee’s first five-star hotel, which has hosted everyone from Patsy Cline to Amelia Earhart since opening in 1910. Designed in the Beaux Arts style, it is impressively grand, with polished marble, ornate plasterwork and an intricate stained-glass ceiling in the lobby.
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Where to dine? Audrey, the flagship of the acclaimed chef Sean Brock. Dishes are inspired by his Appalachian roots and the comforting recipes cooked by his grandmother (the restaurant’s namesake), such as chicken and dumplings, and warm sesame and citrus cake.
Bring home… denim from the Nashville label Imogene + Willie in the 12 South neighbourhood. While you’re in the area, pick up some pastries at the Butter Milk Ranch (a dulce de leche cookie is a must) to enjoy on the flight home.
A 10-night ‘Explore the American South’ trip with Abercrombie & Kent, from £5,685 a person, based on two people sharing, including flights with British Airways, car hire, guided excursions and B&B accommodation.