The crowd gathers in speedos, budgie smugglers, and rainbow bikinis as the progress flag is raised over Bondi Beach.
It’s an annual tradition – the unofficial beginning of Mardi Gras weekend – for the Sydney LGBT+ swim club to take an early morning dip in the rolling surf of the Pacific.
We’re flanked on either side by lifeguards with rainbow flags painted on their surfboards – a welcome safety measure, though it doesn’t feel needed because most of the group don’t even bother to swim.
They’re too preoccupied with splashing one another and sharing the juiciest of last night’s gossip. I realise the point of this isn’t to fit in a morning workout, but rather an opportunity for queer people to socialise in a way that doesn’t revolve around alcohol or drugs.
For context, this wasn’t my first Mardi Gras. I’d come during the infamous Pride celebrations in 2023. That year Sydney had been chosen to host World Pride, so everything was bigger and better, pride at its most superlative. And, like many others, my alcohol consumption had been excessive, to say the least.
That year went down in gay history books as one of the most chaotic Prides any of us had ever experienced. The parties went back to back, for weeks, and it felt like nobody came up for air.
Canadian TikToker Chris Zou went viral for asking the question we were all thinking. ‘When the f*ck do these people sleep?’
This time, however, I wanted something different. I’m currently on a journey to visit Pride events across all seven continents, but I’m also on a personal journey of sobriety.
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Having recently hit the 18-month mark, I’ve been spending a lot of time reevaluating my relationship with queer spaces.
For gay men in particular, substance use has become ingrained into our community. I don’t shy away from bars or clubs, but sometimes it can be difficult to connect when it feels like you’re the only one not in line for the bar or the toilet cubicle.
Pride Around the World
Calum McSwiggan, author of Eat Gay Love, is a man on a mission. He plans to spend 2025 exploring how the LGBT+ community is celebrated everywhere on Earth: 12 months, 7 continents, 20 Prides.
In an exclusive Metro series, Calum will journey from the subzero climes of Antarctica to the jewel-toned streets of Mumbai, telling the story of Pride around the world.
Follow his journey on Metro, in print and on our socials to learn how Pride is celebrated around the world. Next up? Rovaniemi, Finland.
Coming to Sydney I was worried about ‘being the sober one’, but bobbing up and down in the sea with a hundred-or-so fellow swim enthusiasts puts us all on the same level.
Small talk gives way to meaningful conversation, and I realise there’s more to the Harbour City’s LGBT+ community than I’d originally thought. Yes, they know how to throw a legendary party, but it turns out they know how to build a tight-knit community too.
‘These community groups are vital,’ Jeremy James from North Bondi Surf Life Saving Club, tells Metro. ‘They provide spaces where we can find each other and build connections.
‘Just a few decades ago, Bondi was known for sustained violent acts against our community. Today, this event symbolizes the progress we’ve made and the unwavering strength of our community.’
It’s hard to imagine that this was a place once known for violence, but a memorial now stands here as a reminder of what took place.
Between the 1970s and 1990s, LGBT+ people were systematically targeted, with some allegedly being thrown from the cliffs.
Today, however, the cliffs of Bondi have been reclaimed as a place of love and acceptance. Lesbian influencers Gabi and Shanna (@27travels) got married here during World Pride, sending a powerful message that love will always win. The hoisting of the Pride flag above the swim club sends the same message.
This defiance can be felt everywhere across the Eastern Suburbs. At Fair Day – a community-driven Mardi Gras event – I’m overwhelmed by options for LGBT+ sports clubs. Row upon row of different societies are recruiting new members. With everything from boxing to dragon boat racing, it feels like there’s a club for everyone.
I explain that I have zero hand-eye coordination – I was always that queer kid who was picked last for PE – but I get the same answer at every turn: regardless of ability, everyone is welcome.
Against my better judgment, I have my arm twisted into attending the Big Gay Ice Bath Bonanza, an LGBT+ event focused on mental health. I regret my willingness as we gather on the sand before the sun has even risen. It’s already cold on the beach at this hour, and as I watch the baths being loaded with generous buckets of ice, I wonder what the hell I’ve signed up for.
But after ice-breakers and sunrise breathwork, the pieces click into place. ‘Events like these are important to give LGBT+ people a space to connect and build friendships beyond the party scene,’ Nick White – gay men’s coach and founder of the Happy Human Project – explains.
‘In a community where mental health struggles are common, these experiences help us feel stronger, more present, and seen.’
These words resonate as I plunge into the icy waters, laughing and shrieking alongside my fellow queers as if I’ve known them for years. I came here expecting a test of endurance, instead, I found a space where vulnerability was not just encouraged, but celebrated. Sometimes getting out of our comfort zones is the fastest way to new friends.
If ice baths and sports clubs aren’t your thing, however, there’s something for just about everyone.
There’s an LGBT+ dog pageant, a queer fashion show, and – perhaps most importantly – an LGBT+ prom for queer youth. That’s something that resonates with me personally; when I was a queer kid, I skipped prom because I didn’t feel free to be myself.
Sydney goes above and beyond to give everyone this freedom, and I think that’s what draws so many from overseas. Booking.com’s research shows that 51% of LGBT+ people consider how accepting a place is before booking a trip, and by the sheer number of queer tourists I meet, I think it’s clear that the city’s reputation proceeds it.
There’s a diverse offering of events for every member of the community too – there’s the Paradiso Pool Party for those who want to dance in their speedos, and the Kaftana Pool Party for those who prefer to cover up.
There’s the Hot Trans Summer boat party; the Ultra Violet party for queer women; and the renowned Sissy Ball, the largest vogue ball in the southern hemisphere, run by and for the trans community and QPOC.
It’s an opportunity for marginalised voices to be heard, and Kianna Oricci – the ball’s curator – uses her time on stage to educate: ‘This is a learning opportunity for everyone, to know how to protect us – trans women of colour – to make sure we are flourishing in whatever we’re doing, and that we have support from the wider community.’
Her speech is met with thunderous applause. It’s important to remember that seeking support from allies is how Sydney’s celebrations originally began. In 1978, queer activists came together to plan a protest, but knowing they didn’t want things to turn violent, they decided to guise the demonstration as a giant street party instead.
Sydney Mardi Gras was born, and almost 50 years later, it’s one of the biggest festivals in the world. The festivities are broadcast live on national TV – something unheard of for a Pride parade – and as such, they put on a show unrivalled anywhere else.
As the sun sets over Sydney, the city is transformed by the tidal wave of energy that is Mardi Gras after dark. A dancing shark – made from recycled materials – sashays down the street wielding pom poms. There’s choreography and pyrotechnics, and the march of the queer librarians who furiously shush the cheering crowd.
There are light-up costumes, reems of confetti, and more speedos than seems sensible. ‘Is Pride really not like this everywhere?’ a local lesbian asks me as a rainbow firework explodes overhead, beautifully unaware of how special and unique this celebration truly is.
By the time I’m deep into the after-party, all worries of ‘being the sober one’ have escaped me. As Leland brings out queer royalty like Troye Sivan and Trixie Matel, dripping with sweat, I dance alongside friends and strangers alike.
There’s no doubt that Sydney Mardi Gras knows how to throw a party, but if you look beneath the surface, you’ll also find one of the most welcoming (and sober-friendly, if you want that) communities in the world.
Travel guide to Sydney Pride
Getting there
Singapore Airlines flies to Sydney from London and Manchester, with return fares starting from £851.
Where to stay
These hotels all proudly display the Travel Proud badge after completing Booking.com’s LGBT+ inclusivity training.
Things to do (beyond Pride)
Places to eat
Sydney Fish Market: The freshest sashimi and oysters served straight from the bay
Cohab Coffee: Trans-owned coffee shop with an eco-friendly initiative at its heart
Sokyo: Decadent Japanese fusion with Australia’s finest produce
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